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NOT the beef hearts Charlene served up |
Heart
The deliciousness of milk and honey is the reflection of the pure heart:
from that heart the sweetness of every sweet thing is derived.
The heart is the substance, and the world the accident:
how should the heart's shadow be the object of the heart's desire?
Is that pure heart the heart that is enamored of riches or power,
or is submissive to this black earth and water of the body,
or to vain fancies it worships in the darkness for the sake of fame?
The heart is nothing but the Sea of Light:
is the heart the place of vision of God--and then blind?
Rumi [III, 2265-9]
Even the waitress seemed apprehensive. "Should I continue?" she asked, a pause after she announced the evening's special: beef hearts, mesquite grilled and coated with aji panca, a Peruvian red chile paste that is sweet and smokey and the color of drying blood.
The Queens were partaking in Late Night, a Sunday tradition that involves a Chef named Charlene, a host named Pavle, and one of the best restaurants within driving distance.* Late Night takes place during a brief window on Sundays, and is the chance to eat whatever Chef Charlene chooses to prepare for a bargain price, which is important for us Queens on a budget. There's a regular menu too, but it's become ritual, an act of trust and gratitude for us to shimmy up to Charlene's counter and enjoy whatever "late night love" (as Pavle calls it,) she places in front of us. It's a point of pride too, that we always clean our plates.
And tonight, she was preparing beef hearts.
Beef hearts. The Queens were awash in trepidation; after all, we, like most of our generation, think of the animals we eat as their parts: a hen is a saran sterile chicken breast, a pig a shining clean pork tenderloin wrapped in butcher paper, a cow a tube of ground beef from which to slice perfectly formed hamburger patties. With the possible exception of a Thanksgiving turkey, many of our us remain blissfully unaware if the less appealing parts of our meat animals, and purposely so. Their breathing lungs and cleansing livers are just a shadowy idea, one that reminds us our dinner was once alive and kicking. We don't like to think about it; it's not palatable. We don't want to be reminded of their beating hearts.
And now Chef Charlene wanted to put one of those hearts in front of us. Grilled to perfection no doubt, subtly seasoned and then plated with love and care for sure, but still... Beef hearts?
A cow's heart weighs around five pounds, more that ten times the weight of an average person's. It pumps nearly 10,000 pints of blood through the cow's body daily, all of which (if it's a female cow) travels through the utter to produce milk. It's an amazing organ, and disconcertingly similar in shape and form to our own. In function, a cow's heart is exactly the same as the muscle I have pulsing behind my breasts...
So it was a challenge. Difficult.
Icky. But Queens cannot be stymied by squeamishness developed as 21st century Americans, and so when the waitress brought our meal to the table, the plates included two skewers of what looked just like steak, little fillets that were slightly round and oblong and perhaps swollen, as if they were full to bursting with something hot and viscous.
I slid a piece off one of the skewers, and was relieved the heart didn't leave a trail of blood scraped behind it, that there were no fluids oozing out the small hole the wood left behind. I placed it on the plate in front of me and looked carefully at it for a moment, then purposefully sliced into my heart with a butter knife. The small piece I peeled away was dark and smokey on the outside, and ranged from bright pink to vivid red on the interior. There were few juices, and the meat appeared perfectly smooth, lacking the striations one expects in a sirloin or porterhouse.
The first thing on my tongue was the aji panca, which was hot like a mild chile - just a little at first. The spice gave way to the flavor of the mesquite grill and other ingredients in the rub, and I closed my lips around my fork to discovered how wonderfully soft the meat was between my teeth, and just how familiar the flavor was.
Really, it was just like a steak.
Alright, maybe not
just like a steak. There was definitely something extra there. My taste buds recognized the flavor of cow for sure, but there was something further that I couldn't quite catch, an intensity way back on the palate where it might have been placed by my subconscious... The texture was easier to discern. It was unbelievably smooth, with no chewiness to it at all, just the slight grit of the charred aji panca.
Am I a fan? Well... As Queen DeAnna says, I'm not a non-fan. I ate my share, and the plate was empty when the waitress removed it from the table. I had an appreciation for the preparation, and truly believe that any disatisfaction with the flavor of heart is purely a result of my social conditioning. Had someone told me it was a filet medallion, or the trimmings from a t-bone, I probably would have enjoyed it with more enthusiasm and less fear; as it was I'm grateful for the chance to savor, to observe, and to experience a new and unexpected culinary adventure. Will I order it again? Perhaps; we'll have to see what Chef Charlene plates up next week.
*That's all the identification I'll offer (and it's more than enough if you're truly interested,) because the restaurant is small and, frankly, The Queens don't want you taking our seats.